Rover Meteor V12 Race car !
 
At this time i had planned to present an update with a testdrive, Not so unfortunatly. Time flies and i have some other cars to drive 
And keep updated. Then my wife wanted me to work on the house. Enough excuses on with the update..
 
 
 
. Here is the flywheel mounted on the V12 PTO. I had to make an adapter to get the gearbox axle bushing in place.
1
Clutch and flywheel mounted on the engine.
And finnaly the gearbox in place, i did not make a heavy rear gearbox mount since the engine is mounted solid into the frame, so the gearbox dont have to carry any weight.
Then i took a look into my old Ford 9" axle i had laying around, it's a 2,78 to 1 . 
And it will propell my "car" at lightning speed (not ;-)
I cleaned out the inside of the axle to. Since i used the "gas axe" to cut of the original mounts.  
The brakes got a refurbish to. Bought some new brake cylinders (not mounted in this picture). 
The other parts where reusable. 
 
I got a set of 18" Wire wheels with usable tires ;-) The drawback was that the they had a 5 inch boltpattern. But luckily i found a lowrider webbpage that had adapters between 4,5 inch  five bolt to 5 inch 5 bolt.
Here is the wheel mounted for the first time,I will sandblast the whhel and paint them later on.
Then it was time to cover the butt (make a seat).. 
 
  Got the shape from one of my kitchen chairs.
Used a sheet to design the backrest, then i cut it out of some 1 mm sheet steel.Its cheaper to make mistakes in paper. 
 
Testing the design..
Henrik helped me turning the crank..
We made a thin line 40 mm into the sheet. then we used some bigge rollers and made an edge. That i filled with an 8mm rod later..
Backrest ready.
.
Punched some holes at the bottom of the backrest, and then plugwelded the bottom part to the bottompart
.. 
 
 
Here you can see the 8mm rod spot welded at the seat edge.
After the seats, it was time to start with the steering. I had to shorten the steering column. and add a ford column piece so my BIG steering wheel would fit.
This is a good way to drill holes into tubes, its two pieces of angle iron welded togheter.
I chamfered the ends to get a good weld penetration. and also plug welde the holes i drilled into the steering shaft.
Ready. Dont grind welds on steering parts, and be sure that you have real good weld's your life can depend on them.
 
Mikael is helping me find out the location of the steering box.
Used  some 6mm steel plate, and the first weld is there.
I had to make some side pieces, paper is cheaper then steel, so use it as pattern.
Starting to look the business now. the steeringbox is a Volvo of course :-)
After the steering was sorted . I started to mess with the rear  axle spring mounts, i did not have the original Buick parts so i had to make them myself.
This is the lower part of the springmount.
This is the old rusty spring . This mounting style is called cantilever.
 
I had to take the springs apart, and grind of years of old rust, and then greased them up. It took me two evenings to do this.
 
First i had to try out the suspension geometry, Since the Buick had a solid propshaft like an old Ford takin car of the axle position. Since i did not have that i had to add a lower bar (Volvo) to get a fourlink type of suspension. later i added plate on both sides of the bar and more bolts to hold the spring.
Something like this.
Reused the axle shock mounts, shocks are Volvo of course the cheapest i could find :-) 
This is the propshaft consist of Volvo propshaft + Chevy yoke parts. And i know it wont hold up to 600 hp, but remember im building the "car" just to being able to move under own power so people can enjoy the awesome sound.
Propshaft mounted.
Then it was time to look at the other end of the vehicle,first i made a plywood pattern to define the maximum size of the radiator. Then a friend of mine got me a core that could  handle 600 hpr.
The same friend made some brass tanks to fit the core.
This is a Photoshop exercise, to get a picture of how it will look. The collor match the vaccum cleaner at least.
I made a couple of U shaped bowes to carry the hood. 
To fit the radiator i made flat iron cradle, and some L shaped pieces and soldered them to the brass tanks.
When the radiator was taken care of, i needed to have some brake and clutch pedals.
Guess what i used for parts (volvo of course). Maybe im building the new X90 :-)
Hood mockup Once again paper is cheaper than steel.
Some sheets of steel and piano hinges, and hundreds of poprivets.
Starting to look functional.
I have also started to make a cover for the radiator, you have to wait for the next update to see the result
 
After a year ive also welded the last part of  the gastank, you get no point if you guess where the cap came from  (Volvo ;-))
Finally for this time, i mounted the sending unit for water temp, and guess what its not a Volvo part!!!
Here is a picture captured from a MPEG file taken on my first test start. Now i really need to get my flywheel back. 

By the way if you want to se the "movie" here is the link. 
3.9 MB so it takes a while with a Modem. 

 http://w1.132.telia.com/~u13203489/ItsAlive3.MPG 

 
Copyright © 2002 Flatlanders, All rights reserved.
 No pictures on this home page may be reproduced without written permission of the  WEB master.